Sides: Over 150 Enticing Accompaniments That Make the Meal

In Italian, these dishes are called contorni because they give a meal its contours. In this well-rounded collection drawn from many cuisines, Phillips (Working a Duck), once sous-chef at New York's renowned Chanterelle restaurant, offers 150 enticing recipes using vegetables, grains, pastas, beans and even fruits prepared alone or in combo and in a variety of techniques. Straightforward selections generally highlight a main ingredient (Steamed New Potatoes with Mint and Braised Endive), although some, such as as Mushroom Strudel and Ratatouille Beggar's Purses, give a cook a chance to shine as well. Lucidly described recipes come with main-course suggestions and pairings with other side dishes. A slight drawback is the book's organization, with chapters based variously on ingredients (``Vegetable Sides''), technique (``Fritters and Other Fried Delights'') and judgment (``Extravagant Sides''). Otherwise, the browsing is fine and the recipes will likely send novice and veteran cooks right into the kitchen. (May)