The Japanese Grill

The land of the rising sun shares its border with barbecue country in this simple and salty collection. Japanese-born Ono, who is executive chef at New York's Matsuri restaurant, and American food writer Salat, present a miso mashup of over 100 recipes covering poultry, steak, seafood, and vegetables. They begin with yakitori, skewered cuts of just about anything grilled, then sauced, then grilled some more to create a caramelized coating. The classic sauce involves sake, soy sauce, and brown sugar in a stock made from chicken bones. And indeed, no part of a hen is neglected, with the liver, gizzard, neck, heart, and skin all deemed skewer-worthy. As the authors note, religious beliefs essentially kept red meat out of the Japanese diet till the mid-19th century. Perhaps that is why the beef entrees seem so diabolically tempting. The brazen, cross-cultural flirtation of skirt steak with red miso is outdone only by the bone-in rib-eye with wasabi sour cream. Either would pair nicely with any of the half a dozen yaki onigiri, grilled rice balls seasoned with various fermented flavors. A handy source list for those wishing to buy ingredients online is provided, and to aid those within striking distance of a Japanese market, there is a list of 22 key ingredients written out in both English and Japanese. (Apr.)