Braise: A Journey Through International Cuisine

As Chef Boulud explains in the introduction, "Every chef has a dish so fundamental to the psyche that whenever he tastes, smells, or even just imagines its flavors, it immediately brings him to where he had it first." Hence, he offers this personal and informative cookbook that focuses on braised meat. Boulud begins with notes on the technique, key equipment, ingredients and helpful tips before embarking on the more than 100 neatly organized recipes such as Veal Breast with Cinnamon and Green Olives; Milk-Braised Pork Loin with Hazelnuts and Pepper; and Royal Shoulder of Lamb with Saffron, Raisins and Pistachios. (Some recipes include nonbraised sides like Celery Root Salad.) There are also chapters on poultry and rabbit, seafood (e.g., Spiced Grouper with Fennel, Cashew and Mango; Sea Scallops with Salsify, Shiitake Mushrooms and White Miso), vegetables and beans, and even desserts, like the unexpected Sweet Eggplant with Pistachios. Headnotes give insight into the cultures that inspired these recipes—all of which, as one would expect from Boulud, are intriguing and innovative—and side notes on ingredients help make exotic dishes less intimidating. (Nov.)