Cooking with Daniel Boulud

The demand by home cooks for healthy and interesting meals has led any number of chefs to pass on their cooking advice and recipes. Boulud now joins them with an excellent book. Formerly the head chef at Le Cirque in New York, and now running his own restaurant, Daniel, Boulud has brought together recipes which reflect his training in classic French cuisine and the influence of American ingredients and regional cooking on such cuisine. He firmly believes in using fresh seasonal ingredients, and provides a ``market list'' with advice on how to select and use fruits and vegetables at their peaks. A dish like peppered tuna and shoestring potatoes is a prime example of Boulud's skill in matching compatible yet contrasting tastes and textures. The recipes are well-written, with clear, concise steps and do-ahead tips. Although the author has worked to adapt restaurant recipes to the average kitchen, this is no book for amateurs. Boulud presumes a certain level of competence. If you don't know how to sweat an onion or shape an artichoke leaf, or aren't willing to make your own stocks, you will be lost. Some of the dishes are fairly labor-intensive and are not for those looking to put together a quick meal when they get home from work. But for experienced home cooks who want to add something special to their repertoire, this is a superb book to consult. Photos not seen by PW . Author tour. (Sept.)