COOKING AT HOME ON RUE TATIN

At first glance, Loomis's eighth cookbook may look like just another collection of French staples explained by a savvy American cook. Upon closer inspection, it's clear the work, while based largely on traditional French fare, reflects the ever evolving nature of Gallic cuisine, with its strong African and Asian influences. The author, who runs On Rue Tatin, a cooking school in Normandy, has met many people during her 15-plus years in France, and she shares their recipes here. The result is a pleasing French cookbook, with recipes for traditional Leek and Bacon Quiche, Savory Beef Stew, and Cherry Clafoutis appearing alongside instructions for Chorba (an Algerian vegetable and lamb soup), Franco-Vietnamese Spring Rolls, and Chicken with Turmeric and Coconut Milk from the island of Réunion. There are some time-consuming dishes, such as A Homemaker's Chicken Liver Terrine, which takes at least 24 hours to make, and the ingredient lists can be intimidating (some recipes require as many as 17 ingredients). Only the most intrepid cooks will attempt Gazpacho with Mustard Ice Cream, or Frosty Lentils (which entails topping barely cooked lentils with shaved frozen cucumbers and cornichons). Those bored with straightforward French cooking (ce n'est pas possible! ) and those with more adventurous tastes stand to benefit most from this atypical French cookbook. Illus. Agent, Angela Miller. (June)