Clambakes & Fish Fries

Loomis ( The Great American Seafood Cookbook ) roamed some 15,000 miles around America, searching for ``seafood celebrations'' that would offer booty for this book. In Workman's typical style, she rounds up her findings with visual flair and conversational aplomb. Her first-person voice is warm and consistent, and Loomis's findings are by no means restricted to the fishy: her chocolate, chocolate, chocolate cake hails from near Camden, Maine, and basmati rice with scallions and peas'' comes from Thorndyke in the same state. Along with these outstanding recipes, she provides glimpses of the local cooks who donated them, as well as comments on the sometimes hard lot of country living. Her down-home friendliness makes Loomis seem like an agreeable neighbor, and her recipes have the cheerfulness of pot-luck. Illustrations not seen by PW. (July)