Graham Kerr's Smart Cooking

Kerr ( The Graham Kerr Cookbook ), television's garrulous ``galloping gourmet,'' here joins rank with legions of other foodies in a quest for a contemporary culinary grail: low-fat, low-sodium, high-fiber cooking that still tastes good. With this eclectic collection of recipes, borrowing from cuisines as varied as Mexican, Puerto Rican and Thai, Kerr contributes some innovative ideas to elevate flavor while lowering fat, including cilantro pesto and the notion of cooking pasta (radiatore, in this case) directly in the sauce, rather than in water. Here as well is a hearty steak and oyster pie and an inventive--lower fat--version of rice pudding called ``Joyce Brothers' Comfort Cup''--a favorite of the syndicated psychologist. Many rather unusual and exotic ingredients are described at length. But the volume's flaw is Kerr's assumption that local supermarkets will carry all ingredients or that readers have access to specialty stores. A mail-order source for key ingredients listed without substitutions (e.g., kaffir lime leaves and galangal) would increase the book's usefulness. Author tour; BOMC selection. (Oct.)