Graham Kerr's Best

Devising regimens to cheer dedicated fat-fighters, Kerr (Smart Cooking) shuffles some 250 recipes into three categories: those whose calories are 10%, 20% and 30% fat. Each section includes appetizers and soups, entrees, side dishes, brunch and breakfast meals and desserts. Emphasizing creative uses of aroma, texture, color and taste to achieve a satisfactory ""mouthfeel,"" Kerr advocates juices, spices, herbs, de-alcoholized wine and balsamic vinegar to spark up flavor. A fervent supporter of portion control, Kerr offers his 14"" Pizza Polese, with eight ounces of coarsely ground skinless chicken, four anchovy fillets, vegetables and six thin slices of mozzarella, to serve six. Other fat-lowering strategies include the use of vegetables, bulgur or rice to compensate for low meat content, substituting drained yogurt for cream, thickening sauces with a blend of cornstarch and nonfat liquid , and minimizing oil in preparation. Because it is lean and 18% protein, squid will gain in popularity, predicts Kerr, who also keeps cholesterol low with liquid egg substitute in such dishes as Blackberry Zabaglione. Nutritional profiles are provided for all recipes; the largest share of the book is devoted to recipes with 10% fat. (Jan.)