Souffles

This tempting collection of souffle recipes will make you want to start cracking eggs. But that's a problemeggs. If you're watching your cholesterol and fat intake, then just read and fantasizeor consume only rarely. Another hitch is the frozen souffle, with its uncooked yolks and whites: as a result of the salmonella controversy surrounding insufficiently cooked eggs, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has warned against eating them uncooked. Pastry chefs Amernick and Chiro don't address these health issues. But their recipes are imaginative and eminently workable (no cooked flour-and-milk base to complicate life). Included are lunch and supper entrees (e.g., crab souffle tarts); intriguing appetizers (ham souffle in roasted red potatoes); and souffle versions of dessert favorites (brownie souffle with whipped cream). Advice about utensils and preparation helps reduce the souffle intimidation factor. (Feb.)