Doughnuts: Over 3 Dozen Crullers, Fritters and Other Treats

In a book that is somewhat thinner than a doughnut, but still amply stocked, Parker ( Pancakes ), ``born in Texas of fiercely Southern antecedents,'' dives again into the frying pan, emerging unscathed. She traces this tidbit back to early China, where the ur-doughnut ``symbolized Eternity''; and suggests good ingredients, culinary tools and basic methods for making it, before she gets into her (mostly) sugary litany. Some of the fare is unexpected: elderflower fritters, for example, which were included at fancy meals in France during the Middle Ages. Parker urges moderns, too, to dip the flowers into batter and fry, then serve with strawberry or blueberry puree. Sweet potato doughnuts sound heavier, and claim kinship with George Washington Carver, who rooted for the vegetable. And onion buns are more savory than sweet. But the book offers enticing choices, as well as a small number of low-fat, low-cholesterol recipes, including one for chocolate doughnuts. (Mar.)