Classical Southern Cooking: A Celebration of the Cuisine of the Old South

Architect and cooking teacher Fowler writes lovely, imagistic prose--the expansive chapter introductions and chatty margin notes packed into this affectionate, well-researched book are terrific. Although his recipes can be vague (Lettice Bryan's Almond Cones call for ""3 egg whites, more or less""), this delectable document--drawn mainly from four mid-19th century cookbooks--is a valuable source book of ideas for practiced cooks. Among the offerings are Groundnut Soup with Oysters, Sauteed Ham with Red-eye Gravy, Maum Peggy's Breakfast Fry Breads and Annabella Hill's Deviled Crab. Fowler's loquaciousness results in occasional repetitiveness (we are reminded twice, for example, that hot tapwater contains trace chemicals) and some incongruous references to Italian cuisine and the author's friendship with Marcella Hazan. Yet his enthusiasm for his subject is irresistible. The chapters on vegetables, poultry and game, and ``The Southern Baker's Art'' are of special interest for both history and recipes. (Nov.)