Resolutely unsplashy, Fowler (Classical Southern Cooking) is the anti-Emeril. Roasted Pecans at first seem ho-hum, but these aren't any roasted pecans: they represent the South, "a tangle of earth and refinement," and introduce a quintet of pecan-themed appetizers. The classics—Buttermilk Fried Chicken, two Gumbos, Grits and Croquettes—are lovingly explained, and sidebars and introductions describe everything from rendering lard to peeling tomatoes. Savannah Cutlets may seem nouveau (they use bourbon as well as parmesan cheese), but Fowler, who tempers innovation with historical background, points out parmesan has been imported to Georgia since the 18th century. Cucumber Buttermilk Soup nods to Greek influence, while Sweet Potato Latkes show Jewish flavor. The chapter on eggs is worth the price alone—Fowler explains how to poach quantities of eggs without elaborate equipment. While bacon and ham appear regularly, for example in Broiled Snapper with Bacon, vegetables are often main courses, such as Scalloped Eggplant a la Creole. Seafood, such as Shrimp in Savannah Sweet Red Pepper Sauce and Lowcountry Crab au Gratin, is well represented. The dessert chapter, while short, has Bourbon Pound Cake, Lillie's Little Lemon Puddings and Gingered Peaches. Fowler's enthusiasm and thorough explanations make this book a must for anyone who loves Southern cuisine. (May)
