Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon

According to Sullivan, Brigham Young was on the right track in 1830 when he called a pair of trousers with buttons on the front "fornication pants." The denim blue jean studied here is the perfect mix of form and function (five pockets, durable fabric and comfortable fit), democratically priced (ranging from less than $30 to $1,000-plus for artfully torn and destroyed designer jobs), American, iconic and, most importantly, sexy. In his telling of the story behind the storied garment, Sullivan introduces readers to "Big E" Levi's collectors (who only wear Levi's produced before 1971), provides a surprisingly nuanced history of indigo dye and charts the ascension of "lifestyle brands" like Diesel and Lucky that made $100 (and then $200) jeans commonplace. He also devotes plenty of attention to how Levi's, once the dominant denim purveyor, is now struggling to keep a foothold in the market it created. Sullivan, a San Francisco Chronicle culture reporter, keeps the writing brisk and the major players (and their places within large apparel conglomerates) distinct while ranging across continents and decades, giving devotees the definitive account of the development of the denim that decorates their derrieres. (Aug.)