Home Made in the Kitchen: Traditional Recipes and Household Projects...

Mining tradition and serving it updated, Bluestein and Morrissey (The 99% Fat-Free Cookbook) bring great-grandmother into the modern kitchen with this collection of such old-fashioned staples as fruit preserves (in cooked and freezer versions), pickles, condiments, including plum catsup and black pepper mustard, sausages, fresh cheeses, candies and breads. Cookies-except for gingerbread cutouts-and cakes are conspicuously missing from the roster. Instead, the authors, proprietors of a Chicago cookbook store, delve into home-smoking (some of which can be done on the stovetop) and offer a chapter on beverages, including blackberry cordial and ``Old-Fashioned Ginger Beer.'' The clear, amiably written instructions are laced with occasional recipes and inspiring, detailed instructions for presentation of the prepared items, e.g., decorated ceramic jelly pots or paint-glazed quilted Mason jars. Of particular value is the advice on storage life and techniques. Capped by a chapter on drying techniques and herb-based projects, this idiosyncratic selection will surely please the serious kitchen putterer. HomeStyle and Better Homes & Gardens selections. (Feb.)