People are downright passionate when it comes to pizza. Thick or thin crust? Coal or wood-fired? To fold or not to fold? In Where to Eat Pizza (Phaidon), a global panel of 1,000 pizza chefs, food critics, and other industry experts reveal their recommendations for the best pizza from New Haven to Naples—1,700 pizza places in all. As the birthplace of deep-dish pizza, it’s no surprise that Chicago is well represented in the book. We chatted with Penny Pollack, longtime dining editor of Chicago magazine and the regional expert for Illinois in Where to Eat Pizza, to get her take on the ultimate Chicago pizza experience.
What are some of your favorite Chicago pizza places listed in the book?
Vito & Nick’s. I must admit that I have never set foot in the place—only eaten this pie from the box my husband rushes home to me. It’s just so... so Chicago tasting. Crispy-thin crust, party-cut [lots of smaller squares instead of wedges], juicy sausage, slightly oily cheese. The place has been around for some 60-odd years, and it reminds me of growing up in Chicago. And it hasn’t lost its charm.
Pizano’s. I love, love, love the pastry-like crust here. It’s addictive. I am utterly happy with plain cheese. If you must have a topping, limit it to one, otherwise you degrade the crust experience.
What’s your favorite specialty pizza in Chicago?
Coalfire does “artisanal” pies that stand out from the rest. And there are plenty of pizza “artisans” around these days. I put the word in quote marks, because I believe it is overused and abused. But not at Coalfire. Blistered collars and chewy centers are baked for two minutes in a clean-burning coal oven. It might be the only coal oven in Chicago. Toppings are brilliant and balanced. Best of all is the one called Lasagna.
For someone who only has two or three days to spend in Chicago, which pizza places in the book have the best true Chicago pizza joint atmosphere?
Pizzeria Uno. Admittedly, I am not a fan of deep-dish pizza (blasphemy in Chicago, I know)—Chicago’s contribution to original and legendary pizza styles—but Uno’s cannot be beat for atmo and history and beatup deep-dish pans. And son of a gun, the crust, thick as it is, never goes bready on you.
Lou Malnati’s. The Gold Coast/State Street location is in the book, but if we are talking atmo, I’ve gotta go with the original in Lincolnwood. The thick crust of this Chicago icon has flaky, buttery appeal.
A lot of people attending the BEA convention are from New York, and, as we know, New Yorkers can be quite, well, opinionated—even about their pizza! Tell us what Chicago pizza has that New York-style pizza doesn’t.
I wouldn’t enter this pit under penalty of death.
How did you become a pizza aficionado?
I loved pizza as much as the next guy or gal, but in 2004, I was hired, along with my colleague Jeff Ruby, to write the book Everybody Loves Pizza. After traveling all over the United States to sample pizza, I am comfortable calling myself an expert. There are many regional styles, toppings, cheeses, crust, even shapes, and I do have my loyalties—but pizza is simply one of the world’s finest foods.
Check out Pollack’s Chicago pizza picks for yourself.
Coalfire Pizza
1321 W. Grand Ave.
(312) 226-2625
www.coalfirechicago.com
Opening hours: 4–10 p.m.; closed Monday
Credit cards: Not accepted
Style of pizza: Coal-fired thin-crust
Recommended pizza: Margherita; ’Nduja and Béchamel; Pepperoni and Whipped Ricotta
Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria
1120 N. State St.
(312) 725-7777
www.loumalnatis.com
Lou Malnati’s Lincolnwood (the original)
6649 North Lincoln Avenue
Lincolnwood, Ill. 60712
(847) 673-0800
Opening hours: Open 7 days
Credit cards: Accepted
Style of pizza: Chicago deep-dish
Recommended pizza: Malnati Chicago Classic; The “Lou”
Pizano’s Pizza & Pasta
864 N. State St.
(312) 751-1766
www.pizanoschicago.com
Opening hours: Open 7 days; 11 a.m.–2 a.m.
Credit cards: Accepted
Style of pizza: Chicago medium-crust
Recommended pizza: Cheese
Pizzeria Uno
29 E. Ohio St.
(312) 321-1000
www.unos.com
Opening hours: Open 7 days; 11 a.m.–1 a.m.
Credit cards: Accepted
Style of pizza: Chicago deep-dish
Recommended pizza: Sausage and Cheese
Vito & Nick’s Pizzeria
8433 S. Pulaski Rd.
(773) 735-2050
www.vitoandnicks.com
Opening hours: Open 7 days
Credit cards: Not accepted
Style of pizza: Chicago tavern
Recommended pizza: Pepperoni and Egg; Sausage; Sausage, Beef, and Giardiniera; Vito and Nick’s House Special
This article appeared in the May 11, 2016 edition of PW BEA Show Daily.
