Insider secrets on the pleasures of Los Angeles
The Los Angeles Convention Center is downtown, an area that many Angelenos write off without realizing the vitality, history and accessibility of L.A.'s oldest neighborhood. Slowly, though, people are coming to appreciate downtown, partially through the efforts of such organizations as the L.A. Conservancy. Concentrating on architectural preservation, the Conservancy conducts fascinating Saturday morning walking tours with themes such as "Movie Palaces," "Art Deco Style" and "Marble Masterpieces." (For schedules and reservations, call 213-623-2489.)
One of downtown's most distinctive and best-loved buildings is the grandiose Egyptian-style Central Library, 630 W. Fifth St. (213-228-7000). When arson nearly destroyed this 1920s masterpiece in 1986, firefighters, city organizations and private philanthropists rallied to "Save the Library!" Restoration efforts were successfully completed in 1993, and the library is now a splendid blend of old and new architecture and modern technology.
Another historic restoration beloved by Angelenos is Angel's Flight (213-977-1794), the "tiny funicular that could." Located on Hill Street, between Third and Fourth Streets, this short cable railway was constructed in 1901 to carry passengers up steep Bunker Hill to what was then a neighborhood of fine Victorian homes. In the 1960s, those mansions were razed for the shiny skyscrapers of progress, and Angel's Flight was mothballed, intact, in a downtown warehouse. Finally, in 1996, the two counterbalanced cable cars were reinstalled, complete with their original platforms, and today you can ride this charming piece of history (fare: 25 cents) then admire the view from an open-air plaza at the top.
Across the street is another enduring landmark, Grand Central Market (213-624-2378). Festive mariachi music, enticing aromas and exuberant voices emanate from this bustling enclosed marketplace, which has operated continuously since 1917. Fresh produce is only the beginning; you'll find exotic spice vendors, international food stands for an impromptu lunch (including some of L.A.'s best -- and cheapest -- Mexican fare) and the tastiest, healthiest shakes in town.
Head south from the Convention Center to Exposition Park, site of the Romanesque Coliseum that housed the 1932 and 1984 Olympics -- and may soon host the newest NFL franchise. A trio of museums is clustered together in this parklike setting: the slightly stodgy (think grammar school field trip) Natural History Museum (213-744-3466; www.nhm.org); the eclectic and highly worthwhile California African-American Museum (213-744-7432; www.caam.ca.gov), which can be toured in an hour or less; and the highlight of the group, the new California Science Center (323-SCI-ENCE; www.casciencectr.org). Using high-tech sleight of hand, the center stimulates kids of all ages and offers crowd-pleasing thrills. You can pedal a bicycle across a 43-ft. high wire (demonstrating the principle of gravity and counterweights) or get strapped into the Space Docking Simulator for a virtual reality taste of zero gravity. The IMAX theater is attached to the Science Center and features both 2-D and 3-D movies. During BookExpo, the schedule includes Everest (2D), a thrilling travelogue of a Mt. Everest climbing team that ultimately gets involved with the rescue featured in the bestselling Into Thin Air; and Into the Deep (3D), a queasy look at life way below the surface of the ocean. Exposition Park is an easy freeway hop -- about five minutes -- from the Convention Center.
Top Sites for Culture Vultures
If you're looking for the hottest cultural ticket in L.A., look no further than the Getty Center, 1200 Getty Center Dr. (310-440-7300; www.getty.edu). this dramatic hilltop complex on L.A.'s west side serves as the headquarters for the J. Paul Getty Trust's research, education and conservation concerns and boasts an enormous and meticulously designed garden, a million-dollar-view and its own haute cuisine (and haute priced) restaurant. In addition to its permanent collection, the museum is mounting a traveling exhibition of Greek and Roman antiquities this spring. While admission to the Getty is free, parking reservations are required and must be made in advance. The good news is there are usually some time slots -- often in the late afternoon and evening -- available as late as a week before your visit. Last-minute visitors without reservations can reach the center via taxicab but aren't guaranteed admittance if the Getty is overly crowded. I recommend going on Thursday or Friday night, when the museum is open 'til 9 p.m.
Another hot museum ticket this spring is the Van Gogh's Van Goghs: Masterpieces from the Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam exhibit at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), 5905 Wilshire Blvd. (323-857-6000; www.lacma.org). Featuring dozens of paintings never before shown outside of Europe, the Van Gogh show is here through May 16 and has special extended hours (9 a.m.-9 p.m. every day) separate from the rest of the museum. Also worth seeing while you're at LACMA is the Edward Weston: Photography and Modernism exhibit, through May 3. Tickets for the Van Gogh show can only be purchased by calling 323-462-ARTS.
Across the street from LACMA, along L.A.'s "Museum Row," is the quintessential Southern California Petersen Automotive Museum, 6060 Wilshire Blvd. (323-930-CARS; www.nhm.org/petersen). Founded by the publisher of Hot Rod and Motor Trend magazines, this groovy collection of vintage cars is displayed in period settings similar to a mini-theme park.
Life's a Beach
If you seek the sunshine and laid-back beach vibe that make L.A. so unique, you'll do well to start with a stroll along the Venice Ocean Front Walk, between Venice Boulevard and Rose Avenue. The word "colorful" barely begins to describe the carnival of humanity that converges along this famous beach path. Amidst stalls selling cheap sunglasses, Mexican blankets and herbal supplements, swirls a never-ending circus that includes bikini-clad in-line skaters, tatto d bikers, muscle-bound pretty boys, panhandling vets, urban gangbangers, wanna-be stars and plenty of tourists and gawkers. If you work your way northward about a mile, you'll reach the Santa Monica Pier, located where Colorado Boulevard ends at the shore (310-458-8900 for more information). This great old-fashioned pleasure pier offers rides, romance and perfect panoramic views of the bay and mountains. The wooden wharf, built in 1909 for passenger and cargo ships, is home to seafood restaurants and snack shacks plus a turn-of-the-century indoor carousel (which Paul Newman operated in The Sting). There's also Pacific Park, a fun zone boasting roller-coaster rides and high-tech arcade games. Fisherman still head to the end of the pier to cast their lines, and nostalgia buffs will enjoy the many black-and-white photos of the pier's history.
If you've got a car -- especially a convertible -- take one of Southern California's most scenic drives: Pacific Coast Highway. Heading north, you'll zoom by L.A.'s best beaches, and it's easy to swing into one of the public parking lots for some swimming or sunbathing. If you continue north, you'll come to the chic community of Malibu, where breathtaking high-rent real estate and awesome waves attract a colorful mix of hard-core surfers and publicity-shy celebs. The coast is lined with ocean-view restaurants perched above the sand, in case the sea breezes have stirred up your appetite. The beaches are about a 30-minute freeway drive from the Convention Center.
Heeeeere's Hollywood: Your Ticket to TV- and Movie-Land
Hollywood Boulevard...movie fans the world over still flock here for a look at the world's most famous sidewalk, the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Stretching from Gower Street to La Brea Avenue, this star-studded sidewalk pays tribute to film, TV, radio, theater and recording personalities. Perennial favorites include Marilyn Monr (6744 Hollywood Blvd.), Elvis Presley (6777 Hollywood Blvd.) and James Dean (1719 Vine St.). For information on upcoming ceremonies, call 323-469-8311. Along the Walk of Fame is Mann's (formerly Grauman's) Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd. (323-464-8111 for schedule), the landmark movie palace where such greats as Marlon, Liz and the Duke left their famous hand- and footprints.
If you're interested in checking out what today's movie and television industries are up to, how about taking a studio tour? The best of the bunch is Warner Brothers Studios, Olive Ave. (at Hollywood Way), Burbank (818-972-TOUR), which offers comprehensive two-hour tours Monday through Friday. Cruise past parking spaces marked Clint Eastwood, Michael Douglas and Sharon Stone then walk through active film and television sets. Whether it's an orchestra scoring a film or a TV show being taped or edited, you'll get an insider's glimpse. Stops may include the wardrobe department or the mills where sets are made. Whenever possible, guests visit working sets to watch actors filming actual productions.
Across town at Paramount Pictures, 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood (323-956-1777), the two-hour walking tour is half the price of Warner Bros. ($15 to WB's $30), but they don't allow you to enter any soundstages while taping is taking place. Also offered Monday through Friday, Paramount's tour is both a historical ode to filmmaking and a real-life look at a working studio. Fans of old movies will love the Golden Age history here, especially since many Hollywood greats -- including Cecil B. DeMille, Douglas Fairbanks Jr. and Tyrone Power -- are buried at the adjacent Hollywood Forever Cemetery, 6000 Santa Monica Blvd. (323-469-1181).
What about attending a TV show taping? It may sound a little goofy, but it's a great way to see the industry's inner workings and, depending on the show, can be a lot of fun. Getting tickets to the top shows, Friends and Just Shoot Me, for example, often requires advance planning (or sheer luck), but there are always seats to be filled somewhere. TV shows are taped in studios all over town -- mostly around Hollywood and Studio City (in the Valley). The best way to get tickets to the top sitcoms, such as Everybody Loves Raymond, Suddenly Susan and more, is to call Audiences Unlimited (818-506-0043; www.tvtickets.com). The service distributes tickets on behalf of production companies and networks; all audience tickets are free of charge. Television Tickets (323-467-4697) distributes tickets for talk and game shows, including Jeopardy! The earlier you call, the better your selection of shows will be. You can also call NBC (818-840-4444; www.nbc.com) to see what's being taped at its Burbank studios. Tickets for NBC shows, including The Tonight Show with Jay Leno, can be obtained at the studio on a first-come, first-served basis the day of the show. For tickets to Politically Incorrect with Bill Maher, call the show's ticket line, 323-852-2655, to make a reservation, or order online at www.abc.com/pi.
Walk This Way: Shopping and Strolling
Beverly Hills might top everyone's list of must-see neighborhoods in Los Angeles; the streets may not be paved with gold, but the residents could probably afford it. The shopping mecca of Beverly Hills is known as the "Golden Triangle," a small but precious piece of land that includes renowned Rodeo Drive. The chic boutiques are all here -- Tiffany &Co., Gucci, Hermes, Tommy Hilfiger -- as well as department store giants such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. Check out the behemoth Niketown on Wilshire Boulevard; it's as much a shrine to sports and neon as an athletic-gear store. (If the lifestyles of the rich and famous are more your style, head north a few blocks to gawk at the opulent homes of the super-rich. Pass up those star maps hawked by street vendors -- they're outdated at best and fabricated at worst. You can get an eyeful just driving around on your own-try Roxbury Drive or Bedford Drive, and don't miss the "Pink Palace," Beverly Hills Hotel on Sunset at Beverly Drive.)
If you prefer to shop where mere mortals can afford to actually buy, there are many good options. Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade is a pedestrian-only thoroughfare lined with boutiques, such trendy chain stores as Restoration Hardware and Urban Outfitters and dozens of restaurants and cafes. Only a few blocks from the ocean, the Promenade bustles on into the evening with a seemingly endless assortment of street performers and shoppers. Stores stay open late (often 'til 1 or 2 a.m. on the weekends) for the movie-going crowds.
Nearer to the center of town, La Brea Avenue (between Wilshire and Beverly Boulevards) offers an array of shopping ranging from new and antique furniture to designer and vintage clothing. Liz's Antique Hardware (323-939-4403) is stuffed to the rafters with Victorian door latches, Bakelite drawer pulls, antique bath fixtures and much more. Moletown (323-851-0111) is a vast warehouse of official logo items (T-shirts, hats, key chains, mugs, jackets, posters...) from productions as diverse as The X-Files, The Simpsons or Party of Five and oldies such as Bewitched and Charlie's Angels. The best place for a nearby snack is La Brea Bakery (323-939-6813), brainchild of chef Nancy Silverton from Campanile restaurant next door.
L.A.'s oldest neighborhood El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historic District (213-628-1274 for information), is just north of the downtown business district. Olvera Street, as it's known, is an important cultural landmark, despite the fact that much of it is a re-creation. Some of the city's oldest buildings are here, adobes that date back as far as 1818, and the area exudes the ambiance of Old Mexico. The carnival of sights and sounds is heightened by mariachis, colorful piñatas and traditional dancing. There are plenty of souvenirs and snacks for sale; stop into La Golondrina Cafe (213-628-4349) for a margarita and Mexican meal. A short walk from Olvera Street is Union Station, on Alameda Street at Cesar E. Chavez Avenue. This fine example of California mission-style architecture was built in 1939 with all the opulence and attention to detail that characterize other W.P.A. projects of that era; it's been featured in countless movies and TV shows ever since. The cathedral-size, richly paneled ticket lobby and waiting room haven't been full for a long time, although the station is used for Amtrak and MetroRail trains.
The Theme Parks
Who can resist a visit to the self-proclaimed "Happiest Place on Earth"? Disneyland (714-781-4565; www.disneyland.com) is a must-see on nearly everyone's list. It's only a 45-minute drive south on I-5 from downtown, but there's so much to do you'd better allow six to eight hours at the park. The world's first amusement park (Walt Disney himself coined the term) continues to stay on the cutting edge, the latest achievement being a redesigned Tomorrowland unveiled last year. Tomorrowland also features the park's new high-speed ride, Rocket Rods. Old favorites Space Mountain and Star Tours are still here as well as crowd pleasers in the other themed lands: Indiana Jones Adventure, Pirates of the Caribbean, Mr. Toad's Wild Ride and Roger Rabbit's Toontown. Plan to arrive when the park opens and ride the most popular rides first to avoid long lines between noon and 5 p.m.
Universal Studios (818-508-9600; www.universalstudios.com/unicity2/ush.html) began offering back-lot tours in 1964, little realizing it would one day become one of the premier tourist destinations in L.A. Located in the San Fernando Valley a 20-minute drive from downtown, Universal has grown into an amusement park to rival Disneyland, featuring high-tech thrill rides and live-action shows. The latest addition is Jurassic Park -- the Ride, a special-effects showcase featuring computer magic lifted from the Universal blockbuster. The old studio tour is still here, an hour-long tram ride through the 420-acre back lot to see sets from Psycho and Back to the Future, among others. Lines here can be long. Arrive early to ride the popular rides first; then stroll, snack and take the tram tour during peak hours.
Last month, California welcomed Legoland (760-918-LEGO; www.legolandca.com), a new theme park for kids in the city of Carlsbad, in northern San Diego county. It's the third such park for this famous Danish toy maker; the Legolands in Denmark and Britain have proven enormously successful. Legoland California includes hands-on interactive attractions for kids, family rides and shows and scale models of worldwide landmarks (Eiffel Tower, Statue of Liberty, etc.) constructed of Lego bricks. If San Diego is on your itinerary, or your family is traveling with you, consider being one of the first visitors to this unusual attraction.
