BEA 2000: Dining in the Windy City
By the creators of The Unofficial Guide to Chicago -- 5/8/00
Food for all tastes and budgets--all accessible from McCormick Place
When the long day of conventioneering comes to an end, all you want to do is unwind and turn off the stress receptors for awhile. And there's no better way to do it than to relax with a fine meal. Chicago restaurants are some of the best in the country, offering variety and top quality.
Here are some of our favorite places in Chicago, all accessible from McCormick Place and environs. Some are local favorites, some are hidden gems and some are new and changing establishments. Plus, Chicago after dark...
THE LOOP
The Berghoff (inexpensive, 17 W. Adams St., 312-427-3170) is a traditional German restaurant housed in a turn-of-the-century building. The Rathskeller downstairs serves lunch. Both offer such Teutonic fare as sauerbraten, Wiener schnitzel, fillet of sole, bratwurst, creamed herring and broiled swordfish steak. In acknowledgement of modern tastes, lighter selections are also available. Truly a Chicago landmark, the place has been family operated for more than a hundred years.
For a bold mix of Italian, French and Mediterranean tastes, try the posh Cuisines (inexpensive-moderate, Renaissance Chicago Hotel, 1 W. Wacker Dr., 312-795-3330). Start with the nine-page wine list, then look over the one-page menu for dishes to match your vintage. House specialties include four-cheese ravioli, braised artichokes with wild mushrooms, grilled swordfish, horseradish-crusted salmon and Mediterranean mixed grill (quail, venison, lamb).
Those who want more concentrated Francophilia should attempt to summit Everest (expensive, 40th floor of One Financial Place, 440 S. LaSalle St., 312-663-8920), surely one of the finest French restaurants in the nation. Indulge in the terrine of pheasant, partridge and squab marbled with wild herbs and vegetables.
Heaven on Seven (inexpensive, 7th floor of the Garland Building, 111 N. Wabash Ave., 312-263-6443) is a funky Cajun/Creole place that started life as a coffee shop. The lunch lines are long but they move fast, and the array of hot sauces hurt so good. Favorites include soft-shell crab po'boys, pasta shrimp angry and pasta shrimp voodoo, crawfish tamales, jambalaya and rabbit with mushroom étouffée.
Steak is a Chicago tradition, and the Kinzie Street Chophouse (moderate, 400 N. Wells St., 312-822-0191) keeps the faith. The darkly paneled interior and oak flooring set the tone, and the staff are professional without intimidating. Dig into sesame-crusted yellowfin tuna, double-cut domestic lamb chops or filet mignon.
The recently renovated and revamped La Strada (moderate-expensive, 155 N. Michigan Ave. at Randolph St., 312-565-2200) exudes a special feeling of fine dining, and it's one of the few places in Chicago where classical Northern Italian cuisine can be found. Drink in the atmosphere under crystal chandeliers and Renaissance fresc s. Then on to the menu: prime provini veal cops, potato-crusted salmon, gaeta olive-crusted lamb rack, homemade fettuccini with shelled Maine lobster and Dover sole meunière.
The Palm Restaurant's (moderate-expensive, Swissôtel Chicago, 323 E. Wacker Dr., 312-616-1000) new location offers several dining areas with comfortable tables and booths, some with views of the lakefront. Steak and seafood are the main attraction here. Choose from jumbo Nova Scotia lobsters, three pounds and more; prime aged New York sirloin, filet mignon, porterhouse and prime rib; or veal Milanese, marsala and piccata.
Experience cozy old-world ambience at Russian Tea Time (moderate, 77 E. Adams St., 312-360-0000). This restaurant cooks up classic dishes from Mother Russia, making a nice change of taste for the weary palate. The ambitious menu includes wild game, vegetarian fare, elaborate kulebiaka (meat pie filled with ground beef, cabbage and onions) and excellent crepes. And of course, there is fine Russian tea.
The Zen-like atmosphere at Vong (moderate-expensive, 6 W. Hubbard St., 312-644-VONG) includes a wall of flickering lights, inspired by the candle-filled walls of Buddhist monasteries. The food is Thai-French fusion. Sample entrées: Muscovy duck breast, with tamarind-sesame sauce; monkfish baked with Thai spices and herbs; King salmon with morel mushrooms and turnips in cardamom broth.
NEAR NORTH
The exquisite interior at Ben Pao (inexpensive-moderate, 52 W. Illinois St., 312-222-1888) was designed with harmony and balance following traditional Feng Shui philosophy. Pass through the stunning entryway, and enjoy Chicago's first Chinese satay bar. Satay choices include tamarind chicken, five-spice shrimp, ginger portobello, lamb, vegetable and Mongolian beef.
The Cafe at the Ritz-Carlton (moderate, 160 E. Pearson St., 312-573-5160) resides in an open alcove of the hotel's spectacular 12th-floor lobby. The cafe offers a fine dining experience with china and silver, top-quality food and service and beautiful surroundings for a reasonable price. Specialties include a triple-decker turkey club, dairy-free vegetarian lasagna, pumpkin risotto with porcini mushrooms and a daily special of grilled salmon with vegetables.
Another Windy City institution, the Chicago Chop House (moderate, 60 W. Ontario St., 312-787-7100) is one of the best places for quality steaks and chops. Menu selections are kept simple and properly prepared. Choose from a variety of U.S. prime aged steaks and prime rib. Or opt for spring lamb chops, roast loin of pork or broiled Lake Superior whitefish with lemon butter.
Healthy and clean are the watchwords at Earth (moderate-expensive, 738 N. Wells St., 312-335-5475), which offers exciting cuisine in a fine dining atmosphere. House specialties are good and good for you: vegetable strudel (with or without shrimp), monkfish with Indian pesto fettuccine and curry sauce, sea bass fillet topped with Swiss chard and marinated seitan (wheat protein).
More eco-cuisine for the people can be found at foodlife (inexpensive, Water Tower Place, 835 N. Michigan Ave., 312-335-3663). The place is set up like an outdoor food court/cafe, with 13 "food stations" offering a wide variety of choices. Customers are given a sensor card to use at each station, which then tracks their purchases for payment at a cashier. Everything's an option, including a juice bar, grains, burgers, Mexican, greens, pizza, pot stickers, stir fry and rotisserie chicken.
J 's B-Bop Cafe (inexpensive-moderate, Navy Pier, 600 E. Grand Ave., 312-595-JAZZ) is an energetic mix of good BBQ/Southern fare and groovy, live jazz. The place swings, especially later in the evenings. Pick from the B-Bop BBQ combos: King Oliver (baby back ribs and half a Yardbird chicken) or Duke Ellington (ribs and brisket). Cajun classics including jambalaya and rice with andouille sausage are also on the menu.
Some of the best light renditions of traditional Greek cuisine can be found at Papagus Greek Taverna (moderate, Embassy Suites Hotel, 620 N. State St., 312-642-8450). This rustic, old-world-style taverna may not be in Greektown, but Papagus has brought a good taste of Greece to downtown. Mezedes (appetizers) are the centerpiece, with selections such as taramosalata (cod or lobster r salad), spanikopita, sagnaki (flambéed cheese) and grilled garlic-marinated shrimp. Main courses: Greek roast chicken, spicy lamb and beef meatballs or braised lamb with orzo.
Excellent Mexican fare is the order of the day at ¡Salpicón!, A Taste of Mexico (inexpensive-moderate, 1252 N. Wells St., 312-988-7811). The brightly painted storefront and festive interior are accented by colorful artwork. On the menu: Chiapas-style tamale with chicken and a sweet-seasoned pork picadillo with mole poblano and tostaditas de tinga (crispy small tortillas piled with shredded pork and chorizo in roasted tomato-chipotle sauce).
Spago Grill (moderate-expensive, 520 N. Dearborn St., 312-527-3700) is the more casual cousin of the adjacent Spago. Both are very much in the Wolfgang Puck mold, of course. Boldly flavored dishes include its famous pizzas and calzones, homemade pasta, roasted vegetable sandwich and oven-roasted Sonoma lamb. Typical desserts are Granny Smith apple tarts or tiramisu parfait.
NORTH SIDE
The panoramic 70th-floor view of Chicago's skyline and lakefront fosters a heady, romantic atmosphere at Cité (very expensive, Lake Point Tower, 505 N. Lake Shore Dr., 312-644-4050). This restaurant serves Continental fare with a reliable commitment to fine dining. Entrées: grilled Norwegian salmon fillet with raspberry champagne sauce, roast rack of lamb and classic steak Diane, flambéed tableside. Finish with a dreamy Grand Mariner soufflé.
The Hudson Club (moderate, 504 N. Wells St., 312-467-1947) is sleek, sensuous and spacious, resembling a luxury ocean liner merged with a swank 1940s supper club. The place was designed after the aerodynamic flourishes of the Hudson Hornet automobile. The menu changes weekly; current entrées include wood-roasted bluenose grouper, grilled pork tenderloin and poppy seed-coated halibut.
Bayou country comes to Chicago at Louisiana Kitchen (inexpensive-moderate, 2666 N. Halsted St., 773-529-1666). The casual interior and lovely brick patio are hallmarks of the only restaurant in town specializing in authentic Louisiana fare. On the menu: thick and spicy seafood gumbo, sautéed shrimp and blackened catfish Acadienne and chicken or shrimp jambalaya. Try the fried alligator.
The great Persian food at Pars Cove (inexpensive, 435 W. Diversey Pkwy., 773-549-1515) has earned this spot a loyal following. The menu features a lot of herbs, citrus marinades and pomegranate juice, so sauces tend to be fragrant and sweet-tart. Choices include chicken fessenjan (chicken simmered in pomegranate and walnut sauce); charbroiled kebabs of lamb, beef or filet mignon; and regional appetizers.
Zinfandel (moderate, 59 W. Grand Ave., 312-527-1818) serves wine-friendly cuisine best described as "American ethnic." Menus change to reflect a particular region or ethnicity, such as Hopi, Navajo, Pueblo, Creole/Acadian or Hawaiian. Sample main courses feature the likes of vegetarian portobello and squash dishes, "Hawaiian soul food" (e.g., banana leaf-steamed Hawaiian moonfish "lau lau") or braised Illinois venison with posole.
SOUTH LOOP
The ambitious Chinese menu at Hong Min Restaurant (inexpensive-moderate, 221 W. Cermak Rd., 312-842-5026) offers culinary treats in every category. Some samples from the staggering array of choices: fish with black bean sauce, steamed sole, butterfly scallops, dim sum, special hot pot dishes and duck feet with black mushrooms.
Kitty O'Sheas at the Chicago Hilton and Towers (inexpensive, 720 S. Michigan Ave., 312-922-4400) is a dimly lit Dublin-style pub. You can't get more Irish than this place. Guinness and Harp are drawn from antique taps (try the black-and-tan). Simple, hearty pub fare includes Irish lamb stew, shepherd's pie, corned beef and cabbage, as well as more American variations including the Blarney Burger Deluxe.
Inhabiting a striking split-level space with tall windows and a cathedral ceiling, Prairie (moderate-expensive, 500 S. Dearborn St., 312-663-1143) gets its name from the Prairie school of architecture it exemplifies. Consider the Wisconsin honey-coated duck breast, onion crusted pork or black bean and cilantro-encrusted whitefish.
Chicago After the Lights Go Down
By Jorge Just
There are a million ways to bring life to your nights in Chicago, from friendly neighborhood taverns to high-energy hipster hangouts. Looking for some less interactive entertainment? The theater scene here is tremendous, both as a developing ground for Tony Award-winning productions and as a hothouse for young, eclectic talent. And on any night of the week, you can experience a wide range of live music, or sample the pride of the town--Chicago's thriving jazz and blues scene. Here are some of the best--but by no means the only--ways to spend your evenings in the Windy City. For a more in-depth look at the city's after-dark options, see Frommer's 2000: Chicago.
LUXE LOUNGES AND STAR BARS
To ease the day's tensions before gearing up for the evening, head toward one of the city's notable lounges. Watch the Magnificent Mile light up from 96 stories high at the Signature Lounge in the historic John Hancock Center (875 N. Michigan Ave., 312-787-7230). If you want to remain closer to the ground, have a cocktail at the famous Coq d'Or, the cozy piano bar in the Drake Hotel (140 E. Walton St. at Michigan Ave., 312-787-2200), where local favorite Buddy Charles tickles the keys. Still a tad too lofty? Go underground and grab a beer and a burger at the Billy Goat Tavern (430 N. Michigan Ave., 312-222-1525). Given its location beneath the ChicagoTribune's Wrigley Building, it makes sense that this local institution has become home away from home for the city's journalists. You'll recognize the grill-side cry of "cheeseburgers¦ cheeseburgers" that inspired the famous Saturday Night Live comedy sketch.
Chicago loves its bars, and they come in every imaginable stripe. To experience a truly old-fashioned Chicago saloon, try Old Town Ale House (219 W. North Ave., 312-944-7020). There's a jukebox of solid jazz, a mixed clientele of crusty regulars and Generation X-ers, a paperback lending library filled with the pulpiest fiction and two pinball machines in the back. For something with a little more polish, go west toward the city's first brewpub, the Goose Island Brewing Company (1800 N. Clybourn Ave., 312-915-0071). Goose Island is becoming to Chicago what Sam Adams is to Boston. You'll see their goofy, goose-necked tap handles at bars throughout the city, and they are beginning to branch out across the Midwest. Have a pint of their signature Honker's Ale, or ask for a tasting menu to sample their more limited releases. As any good brewpub should, they also have a casual full-service restaurant.
If you're more of a beer connoisseur than a pounder of pints, Chicago can accommodate you, as well. One popular favorite, both for locals and globetrotters is The Map Room (1949 N. Hoyne Ave., 773-252-7636). The shelves of this global village tap are lined with hundreds of travel books, and Tuesday nights spotlight the food, music and spirits of a selected country. If you'd rather let your taste buds do the traveling, head north to Hopleaf (5148 N. Clark St., 773-334-9851), my favorite beer-snob hangout. This simple little bar has a winning formula: an enormous selection of the world's best beers, with at least one great Belgian ale always on tap at great prices. The vintage jukebox is filled with classic jazz and blues 45s, and if you're feeling antisocial, they've thoughtfully provided a current selection of glossy magazines. It's located in the heart of Andersonville, one of Chicago's most fascinating neighborhoods, where the longtime Swedish community is beginning to make room for a growing contingent of Middle Eastern families and a thriving population of lesbian professionals.
SPOTLIGHT ON STAGE
Chicago boasts a unique and vibrant theater scene, as evidenced by the number of local productions that have gone on to storm Broadway in recent years, the large-scale New York extravaganzas (Elton John's Aida, for instance) that have opened here for last minute reconfiguring and the plethora of small, independent outfits creating their own styles.
Chicago's newest major playhouse is a welcome addition for neo-Elizabethans in the mood for some rousing iambic pentameter. Shakespeare Theater on Navy Pier (800 E. Grand Ave., 312-642-2273), which opened in October 1999, is the final element in the city's quest to redevelop Navy Pier. The new theater, a seven-story glass-box structure that cost $24 million, is the new home of the city's third-largest nonprofit producing theater, formerly the Shakespeare Repertory. The new location boasts a 525-seat courtyard-style theater, modeled after the Swan Theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon, as well as an English-style pub and views of Lake Michigan and the Chicago skyline. It's hard to take anything too seriously at Navy Pier, a place known more for its high-priced plastic souvenirs than for fine art, but this accolade-garnering company and its far-from-mainstream repertoire is a welcome exception. Tickets cost $23-$42.
One of Chicago's most respected theaters is the Goodman Theater (200 S. Columbus Dr., 312-443-3800), which is currently moving from its location behind the Art Institute to a $44-million new theater downtown, where rumors of a Midwest Broadway are running rampant. If that's a possibility, then the Goodman is certainly the company to do it, with its mix of familiar standards, original productions such as Horton Foote's The Young Man from Atlanta (which went straight to Broadway) and Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright August Wilson's Seven Guitars, and revivals such as last year's Death of a Salesman. Expect main stage tickets to cost $28-$42, $18-$29 for studio performances.
As any fan of Chicago theater will tell you, the most exciting major stage in the last few years has been at the Steppenwolf Theater Company (1650 N. Halsted St., 312-335-1650, www.steppenwolf.org). This brilliant repertory company has been lavished with awards, including five Tonys and a National Medal of Arts. It has launched the careers of many respected and famous actors, who frequently return to star in and direct productions, including Gary Sinise, who heads this summer's adaptation of One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest, directed by founder Terry Kinney. Other members include Joan Allen, John Malkovich and Laurie Metcalf. The company has stepped away from its humble beginnings as a group of artistic college grads with an in-your-face style and has begun presenting world premieres by emerging playwrights as well as classic revivals. Still, the 510-seat main stage auditorium is witness to cutting-edge direction and staging, while the smaller upstairs studio is home to some experimental fare by local companies. Main stage tickets cost $38-$42; studio productions cost $15-$25.
For high-quality theater that's less nationally recognized, and thus less expensive, find a production by the Lookingglass Theater Company (2936 N. Southport Ave., 773-477-8088, http://www.lookingglasstheatre.org). This company, founded by Northwestern University graduates, is just reaching its 10th anniversary, but it has already developed a unique style, producing original shows and unusual literary adaptations in a highly physical and visually imaginative style. Though the company hasn't yet found a permanent space and instead uses different theaters around town, it still manages to guarantee a limited amount of $10 tickets for each performance. Tickets cost $10-$26.
If you're in the mood to laugh, head over to the original Second City, in the Pipers Alley complex (1616 N. Wells St., 312-337-3992, www.secondcity.com). Since its inception in 1959, Second City has become the most famous comedy club in the country, and its graduates, from John Belushi to Joan Rivers, have become legends. In addition to the main program, there's always a post-show improv session, which (except for Fridays) is free if you skip the main show. Tickets cost $6-$16.
ALL THAT JAZZ
Chicago has always been a music town, with particular emphasis on jazz and blues. Though the glory days of the Rush Street supper clubs are over, the jazz presence remains as strong as ever. Both local and national acts abound at Jazz Showcase (59 W. Grand St., 312-670-BIRD). Its latest River North incarnation has a spacious family-friendly room, with two shows nightly and a Sunday matinee. Kids of all ages are admitted (children under 12 are free), and there's a no-smoking policy. Tickets cost $10-$20.
Another jazz landmark is the Green Mill (4802 N. Broadway, 773-878-5552), in the heart of Chicago's Uptown neighborhood. A popular and somewhat notorious speakeasy during the '20s and '30s, the Green Mill attracted such regulars as Al Capone and headliners including Al Jolson. On Sunday nights, the Green Mill hosts the Uptown P try Slam, where some of the city's best p ts compete. Most nights, however, jazz is what's available, beginning from around 9 p.m. to just before closing at 4 a.m. (5 a.m. on Saturdays). Cover charges are $5-$7.
Blues is always on tap at Buddy Guy's Legends (754 S. Wabash Ave., 312-427-0333, www.buddyguys.com.). This club, run by blues legend Buddy Guy, is one of the most popular in Chicago. Located in the South Loop area, it attracts to the stage the biggest names in the business, not to mention the proprietor himself, who fittingly sells out his own club whenever he holds court. Covers range from $6 to $15.
Another star on the blues scene is Kingston Mines (2548 N. Halsted St., 773-477-4646, www.kingston-mines.com). This premier blues bar celebrated its 30th anniversary in 1998, and it's known as the place where musicians drop by to jam together after their own night's work is done. The show begins at 9:30 p.m., with two bands on two stages, and g s until four a.m. (five a.m. on Saturdays). Expect to pay $9-$12.
The late 1990s saw Chicago emerge as the center for post-rock, a hip genre of meandering, mostly instrumental music that takes jazz structures and improvisational techniques and applies them to indie rock. The biggest of these bands is Tortoise, and pretty much the only place to catch them, and other local and national indie acts, is the Empty Bottle (1035 N. Western Ave., 773-276-3600, www.emptybottle.com). This slightly dank bar is a haven for young hipsters and for high-quality, little-known bands. Between acts, there's stiff competition for the pool table and couch in the front room and the intermittently operational photo booth. Cover charges are $5-$10.
For a wider scope of rock music, check out Metro (3730 N. Clark St., 773-549-0203, www.metrochicago.com). Located in an old auditorium, Metro is Chicago's premier venue for alternative and rock acts that are about to break. Smashing Pumpkins opened for almost every band that played here, until they made it big. Tickets cost $5-$20.
For more worldly fare, try HotHouse (31 E. Balbo Ave., 312-362-9707, www.hothouse.net). This nonprofit nightclub and gallery brings some of the finest world music and jazz to the city. There's a beautiful cabaret-style front room with tables, dance floor and a stage, and a large gallery in the back that houses local art. Cover charges vary according to show.
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