The 2000 census painted a multiethnic Los Angeles with more minorities than majorities, so whatever worldly cuisine you're in the mood for—Argentinean, Caribbean, Cuban, Ethiopian, Indian, Oaxacan, Peruvian, Spanish, Vietnamese—chances are good that somebody in L.A. is serving it tonight. Gourmet Asian and Asian hybrids are enormously popular right now, as are huge plates of comfort food at non-trendy prices (as restaurants cater to tighter budgets).
The restaurants we've included here are some of our favorites in Los Angeles, all just a short drive or cab ride away (Walk? Who walks in L.A.?). Some are venerable standbys, some are hidden gems, and some are perfect for soaking in the warm California sun. We've divvied them up by area, starting near the Convention Center in Downtown.
Star ratings (on a three-star scale), price ranges, addresses, and phone numbers are all included.
DOWNTOWN
Although L.A.'s Downtown area lacks the Hollywood hype, the restaurant scene is going strong. Case in point is Water Grill [***] (Expensive; 544 S. Grand Ave., between 5th and 6th Sts.; 213-891-0900), a popular dining spot with the suit-and-tie crowd at lunch and with concert-goers en route to the Music Center at night. The dining room is a stylish and sophisticated fusion of wood, leather and brass, but gets a lighthearted lift from cavorting papier-mâché fish that play against an aquamarine ceiling painted with bubbles. Considered by many to be L.A.'s best seafood house, it's known for its shellfish; among the appetizers are a dozen different oysters. Main courses are imaginative dishes influenced by the cuisines of Hawaii, the Pacific Northwest, New Orleans and New England. Try the appetizer seafood platter, served with well-made aioli; bluefin tuna tartare; Santa Barbara spot prawns paired with fingerling potato salad; Maine lobster stuffed with Dungeness crab; perfectly pan-roasted Alaskan halibut; and simple desserts like mascarpone with figs and cherries.
L.A. is also where you'll find the West Coast's best Caribbean food. A fun and funky space on the seedy fringe of Downtown, Cha Cha Cha [*] (Moderate; 656 N. Virgil Ave., at Melrose Ave., Silver Lake; 323-664-7723) is a festival of flavors and colors both upbeat and offbeat. It's impossible to feel down when you're part of this eclectic hodgepodge of pulsating Caribbean music, wild decor and kaleidoscopic clutter; still, the intimate dining rooms cater to lively romantics, not the obnoxious types. Claustrophobes should choose seats in the airy, covered courtyard. The very spicy black-pepper jumbo shrimp gets top marks, as does the paella, a generous mixture of chicken, sausage and seafood blended with saffron rice. Other Jamaican-, Haitian-, Cuban- and Puerto Rican—inspired recommendations include jerk pork and mambo gumbo, a zesty soup of okra, shredded chicken and spices.
Also cashing in on the ever-growing Latin presence is TV's Too Hot Tamales —Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken. Their latest venture is Ciudad [*] (Moderate; 445 S. Figueroa St.; 213-486-5171), an intriguing restaurant in the heart of Downtown. Ciudad means "city" in Spanish, and is a nod to the partners' long-ago venture City Restaurant. Here, amidst juicy sherbet pastel walls and 1950s geometric abstract designs, exuberant crowds gather to revel in a menu that brings together cuisines from the world's great Latin urban centers: Havana, Rio de Janeiro, Barcelona and so on. Standout dishes include Honduran ceviche presented in a martini glass and accented with tropical coconut and pineapple, Argentine rib eye stuffed with jalapeño chiles and whole garlic cloves, and citrus-roasted Cuban style chicken served with Puerto Rican rice and fried plantains. Desserts are worth saving room for, and large enough to share.
A well-kept secret of sushi connoisseurs since 1991 is R23 [*] (Moderate; 923 E. Second St., between Alameda St. and Santa Fe Ave.; 213-687-7178). This gallery-like space in Downtown's out-of-the-way warehouse/artist loft district consists of a large dining room and, in the back, a groovy 12-seat sushi bar. Functional art reveals itself in the corrugated cardboard chairs—they're funky, yet comfortable. Genial sushi wizards stand in wait, cases of the finest fish before them. Salmon, yellowtail, shrimp, tuna and scallops are among the always-fresh selections; an excellent and unusual offering is seared toro, where the rich belly tuna absorbs a faint and delectable smoky flavor from the grill. Though R23's sublimely perfect sushi is the star, the short but inventive menu also includes pungent red miso soup, creamy baked scallops and finely sliced beef "sashimi". The latest addition is a wide selection of premium wines and sakes (try the addictively sweet nigori).
Open for more than 30 years, family-operated Yang Chow Restaurant [**] (Moderate; 819 N. Broadway, at Alpine St., Chinatown; 213-625-0811) is one of Downtown's more popular Chinese restaurants. It's not the dining room's bland and functional decor that accrues accolades; what makes Yang Chow so popular is an interesting menu of seafood specialties complementing well-done Chinese standards. After covering the Mandarin and Szechuan basics—sweet-and-sour pork, shrimp with broccoli, moo shu chicken—the kitchen leaps into high gear, concocting dishes like spicy Dungeness crab, a tangy and hot sautéed squid, and sautéed shellfish with a pungent hoisin-based dipping sauce. The key to having a terrific meal is to first order the house specialty—plump steamed pork dumplings presented on a bed of fresh spinach—then ask for recommendations from your server.
If your budget calls for a more practical dining experience, consider The Original Pantry [*] (Inexpensive; 877 S. Figueroa St., at 9th St.; 213-972-9279). An L.A. institution if there ever was one, this place has been serving huge portions of comfort food around the clock for more than 60 years. In fact, there isn't even a key to the front door. Owned by former L.A. mayor Richard Riordan, the Pantry is popular with politicos who come here for weekday lunches and with conferencegoers en route to the nearby L.A. Convention Center. The well-worn restaurant is also a welcoming beacon to clubbers after hours, when Downtown becomes a virtual ghost town. Famous for quantity rather than quality, the Pantry serves huge T-bone steaks, densely packed meat loaf, macaroni and cheese, and other American favorites. A typical breakfast (served all day) might consist of a huge stack of hotcakes, a big slab of sweet cured ham, home fries and coffee.
Another inexpensive Downtown favorite is Philippe the Original [*] (Inexpensive; 1001 N. Alameda St., at Ord St.; 213-628-3781). Good old-fashioned value is what this legendary landmark cafeteria is all about. Popular with both South Central project residents and Beverly Hills elite, Philippe's unspectacular dining room is one of the few places in L.A. where everyone can get along. Philippe's claims to have invented the French-dipped sandwich at this location in 1908; it remains the most popular menu item. Patrons push trays along the counter and watch while their choice of beef, pork, ham, turkey or lamb is sliced and layered onto crusty French bread that's been dipped in meat juices. Other menu items include homemade beef stew, chili and pickled pigs' feet. Insider Tip: For added entertainment, request a booth in the Train Room, which houses the nifty Model Train Museum.
SANTA MONICA & THE BEACHES
In the summer, the sea-side windows are opened at Cafe Del Rey [**] (Expensive; 4451 Admiralty Way, between Lincoln and Washington Blvds., Marina del Rey; 310-823-6395), turning the room in to an indoor-outdoor dining area with a terrific view of the marina's glimmering sailboats. The huge menu filled with unusual (and often fusion) choices makes ordering adventuresome. The exhibition kitchen focuses on creative preparations of fresh, seasonal foods. While most dishes are very good, some are a bit too creative or contrived. Cuban black-bean soup, Angus New York steak and the honey-cured crispy Peking duck are all winners, as is the huge scallop appetizer wrapped with boar bacon. But the menu changes so frequently that it's impossible to accurately categorize the café's cuisine. Our advice: request a table by the window, ask your server what's good today, pair it with a nice bottle of wine, and enjoy a long, leisurely, cell-phone—free meal.
Wolfgang Puck's Franco-Chinese restaurant Chinois on Main [**] (Expensive; 2709 Main St., south of Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; 310-392-9025) bustles nightly with visitors wooed by the owner's celebrity status. Groundbreaking in its time, the restaurant still relies on the quirky East-meets-West mélange of ingredients and technique. The menu is about equally split between Chinois's signature dishes and seasonal creations. The most famous of the former are Cantonese duck in a sweet-tangy plum sauce, and farm-raised whole catfish that's perfectly deepfried and dramatically presented. Terrific newer dishes include lobster and sea bass sautéed together and flavored with porcini oil and ponzu sauce, and rare roasted loin of venison served in a sauce made with ginger-spiced port and sun-dried cherries. The dining room is as visually colorful as it is acoustically loud.
Sticking to the celebrity theme, before the Two Hot Tamales gals (see Ciudad, p. 59) started their show, they opened a restaurant called Border Grill [***] (Moderate; 1445 Fourth St., between Broadway and Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica; 310-451-1655), a boldly painted, cavernous (read: loud) space in Santa Monica. Okay, so they aren't in the kitchen very much (though cookbooks and paraphernalia from their Food Network show are displayed prominently for sale), but their influence on the inspired menu is enough to maintain the cantina's popularity with folks who swear by the authentic flavor of Yucatán fish tacos, rock shrimp with ancho chilies and meaty ropa vieja, the traditional Latin stew. The best meatless dish is mulitas de hongos, a layering of portobello mushrooms, poblano chilies, black beans, cheese and guacamole, spiced up with roasted garlic and seared red chard. Distracting desserts are displayed prominently near the entrance, so you may spend the meal fantasizing about the coconut flan or Key lime pie.
If value is more importantly to you than vanity, eat at Joe's [**] (Moderate; 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; 310-399-5811), a hidden treasure for those with a champagne palate but a seltzer pocketbook. Chef/owner Joeseph Miller excels in simple New American cuisine, particularly grilled fish and roasted meats accented with piquant herbs. Case in point: for lunch, an autumn vegetable platter of butternut squash puree, braised greens, grilled Portobello mushrooms and brussels sprout leaves wilted with truffle oil and wild mushrooms goes for a mere $11—and this includes a fresh mixed green salad or one of Miller's exquisite soups. Dinner entrees are equally sophisticated: fallow deer wrapped in bacon, monkfish in a saffron broth, wild striped bass with curried cauliflower coulis. Tip: the best tables are still tucked away on the trellised outdoor patio, complete with a gurgling waterfall.
If you're big on breakfast, head down Santa Monica Boulevard to Blueberry [*] (Inexpensive; 510 Santa Monica Blvd., at Fifth St., Santa Monica; 310-394-7766), a cozy little cafe that's typically filled with shoppers and locals from the surrounding laid-back beach community. It serves only breakfast and lunch—Blueberry's owner devotes the dinner hour to the uber-trendy Rix around the corner. The setting is 1930s American farmhouse, complete with blue bandanna seat cushions, vintage ads, picket-fence railings and overalls-clad waitstaff. The food is a "square deal," too, starting with a basket of mini-muffins (blueberry, of course) when you're seated, and including hearty egg dishes, waffles and pancakes, plus generous lunch salads and sandwiches. But we'll bet Ma Kettle never used goat cheese or pancetta in her omelets. There's just a few tables on the main floor and cozy loft, so expect a wait during peak times.
And what would a trip to L.A. be without a trip to Jody Maroni's Sausage Kingdom [*] (Inexpensive; 2011 Ocean Front Walk, north of Venice Blvd., Venice; 310-822-5639) Your cardiologist might not approve, but Jody Maroni's all-natural, preservative-free "haut dogs" are some of the best wieners served anywhere. The grungy walk-up (or in-line skate-up) counter looks fairly foreboding—you wouldn't know there was gourmet fare behind that aging hot dog—stand facade, from which at least 14 different grilled-sausage sandwiches are served up. Bypass the traditional hot Italian and try the Toulouse garlic, Bombay curried lamb, all-chicken apple or orange-garlic-cumin. Each is served on a freshly baked onion roll and smothered with onions and peppers. Burgers, BLTs and rotisserie chicken are also served, but why bother? Other locations include the Valley's Universal CityWalk [818-622-5639)], and inside LAX Terminals 3, 4 and 6, where you can pick up some last-minute vacuum-packed sausages for home.
L.A.'S WESTSIDE & BEVERLY HILLS
Not surprisingly, the Beverly Hills branch of Crustacean [**] (Expensive; 9646 Little Santa Monica Blvd. at Bedford St., Beverly Hills; 310-205-8990) is pure drama from the moment you walk in: you're immediately scrutinized by the patrons to see 1) if you're somebody and 2) what you're wearing, but you're too busy admiring the Indochina-themed décor to notice. What you won't see is the Secret Kitchen (literally, it's even off-limits to most of the staff), where signature dishes such as tiger prawns with garlic noodles, roasted lobster in tamarind sauce and roast Dungeness crab are prepared. Although all these dishes are quite good, they're also heavy on the butter—we prefer the lighter sea bass dish with ginger and garlic-black bean sauce. On weekend nights, Helene An, matriarch and executive chef of the An Family restaurants (a real sweetheart and timeless beauty) is often holding court, making sure your dining experience is faultless.
Continuing the Asian theme, we also highly recommend Matsuhisa [***] (Expensive; 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., north of Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; 310-659-9639). Japanese chef/owner Nobuyuki Matsuhisa arrived in Los Angeles via Peru and opened what may be the most creative restaurant in the city. A true master of fish cookery, Matsuhisa creates fantastic dishes by combining Japanese flavors with South American spices and salsas. Broiled sea bass with black truffles, sautéed squid with garlic and soy, and Dungeness crab tossed with chilies and cream are examples of the masterfully prepared delicacies that are available in addition to thickly sliced nigiri and creative sushi rolls. Matsuhisa is perennially popular with celebrities and hard-core foodies, so reserve early for those hard-to-get tables. If you dare, ask for omakase, and the chef will personally compose a selection of eccentric dishes.
Then again, there's nothing better than a really good steak, and L.A.'s best steakhouse is The Palm [*] (Expensive; 9001 Santa Monica Blvd., between Doheny Dr. and Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood; 310-550-8811). Even the stars and their handlers are regularly in attendance at this brightly lit and extremely noisy restaurant that's decorated with caricatures on the walls and sawdust on the floor. Live Nova Scotia lobsters are flown in almost daily, then broiled over charcoal and served with big bowls of melted butter. Most are an enormous and, although they're obscenely expensive, can be shared. Steaks are similarly sized, perfectly grilled to order and served à la carte. Diners also swear by the celebrated Gigi Salad, a mix of lettuce, shrimp, bacon, green beans, pimento and avocado. For dessert, stick with the Palm's perfect New York cheesecake; they might as well take the rest off the menu.
A restaurant that also gets its share of celebrities is Bombay Café [**] (Moderate; 12021 W. Pico Blvd., at Bundy Dr.; 310-473-3388). This friendly sleeper may be L.A.'s best Indian restaurant, serving excellent curries and kurmas typical of South Indian street food. Once seated, immediately order sev puri for the table; these crispy little chips topped with chopped potatoes, onions, cilantro and chutneys are the perfect accompaniment to what's sure to be an extended menu-reading session. Also recommended are the burrito-like "frankies," juicy little bread rolls stuffed with lamb, chicken or cauliflower. The best dishes come from the tandoor and include spicy yogurt-marinated swordfish, lamb and chicken. While some dishes are authentically spicy, plenty of others have a mellow flavor for less incendiary palates.
If you're heading into Westwood, it's worth visiting Tanino Ristorante and Bar [*] (Moderate; 1043 Westwood Blvd., between Kinross and Weyburn sts., Westwood; 310-208-0444) just to marvel at the 1929 Italianate Renaissance-style building, one of only 12 remaining since Westwood's early days. Designed by renowned Southern California architect Paul Revere Williams, the décor consists of magnificent original ceiling frescos, carvings, murals and artisan plaster that blends well with the checkerboard terrazzo marble flooring, dark hardwoods, sumptuous booths, wrought-iron chandeliers and candlelit tables: an ideal setting for a romantic evening. Chef/owner Tanino Drago (scion of L.A.'s well-known Drago restaurateur family) has created a menu based on regional dishes from his native Sicily; most dishes are cooked cartoccio-style (in their own juices), such as lamb shank ossobuco atop soft polenta, roasted rabbit in green Mediterranean olive sauce, and striped bass baked in papillote with white wine. A wide array of pasta and risottos are available. The charming Italian-accented serves add to the faux-Mediterranean atmosphere. Be sure to arrive early to enjoy a glass of grappa by the fireplace.
If you're from the Midwest, this may be your first opportunity to sample authentic Ethiopian cuisine. Nyala [*] (Moderate; 1076 S. Fairfax Ave., south of Olympic; 323-936-5918) offers a mellow setting—all earthen colors, tribal prints and African music—and an ethnically mixed crowd that finds common ground in the expertly spiced (smoldering, rather than fiery) cuisine. For the uninitiated, Ethiopian food is a mosaic of chopped salads, chunky stews, and saucy vegetables, all served on a colorful enamel platter for communal enjoyment. There are no utensils, merely a basket of injera, the thick, tangy crêpe used to scoop up the other food. Choices range from hearty chicken or lamb chunks stewed with tomatoes and onions to a parade of vegetarian choices (lentils, chick-peas, greens), each with a distinctive marinade. African beers and honey wine are perfect accompaniments.
HOLLYWOOD
A sampling of Hollywood restaurants that leaves out Musso & Frank (Moderate; 6667 Hollywood Blvd., at Cherokee Ave., 323-467-7788) is like a study of Las Vegas singers that fails to mention Wayne Newton. As L.A.'s oldest eatery (since 1919), Musso & Frank is the paragon of Old Hollywood grillrooms. This is where Faulkner and Hemingway drank during their screenwriting days and where Orson Welles held court. The restaurant is still known for its bone-dry martinis and perfectly seasoned Bloody Marys. The setting is what you'd expect: oak-beamed ceilings, red-leather booths and banquettes, mahogany room dividers and chandeliers with tiny shades. The extensive menu is a veritable survey of American/continental cookery. Hearty dinners include veal scaloppini Marsala, roast spring lamb with mint jelly and broiled lobster. Grilled meats are a specialty, as is the Thursday-only chicken potpie. Regulars flock in for Musso's trademark "flannel cakes," crêpe-thin pancakes flipped to order.
A veritable antithesis to Musso & Frank is Joachim Splichal's Patina [***] (Expensive; 5955 Melrose Ave., west of Cahuenga Blvd.; 323-467-1108). Arguably L.A.'s best chef, Splichal is also a genius at choosing and training top chefs to cook in his kitchens while he jets around the world. Patina routinely wins the highest praise from demanding gourmands, who are happy to empty their bank accounts for unbeatable meals. The dining room is low key, well lit and professional, without a hint of stuffiness. The menu is equally disarming: mallard duck with portobello mushrooms gives little hint of the brilliant colors and flavors that appear on the plate. The seasonal menu features partridge, pheasant, venison and other game in winter and spotlights exotic local vegetables in warmer months. Seafood is always available; if Maine lobster cannelloni or asparagus-wrapped John Dory is on the menu, order it. Patina is famous for its mashed potatoes and potato-truffle chips; be sure to include one (or both) with your meal.
Among our top hard-to-find favorites is Sofi [*] (Moderate; 8030 3/4 W. Third St., between Fairfax Ave. and Crescent Heights Blvd.; 323-651-0346). Look for the simple black awning over the narrow passageway that leads from the street to this hidden Aegean treasure. Be sure to ask for a table on the romantic patio amid twinkling lights. Specialties (recipes courtesy of Sofi's Old World grandmother) include herbed rack of lamb with rice, fried calamari salad, saganaki (kasseri cheese flamed with ouzo) and other hearty taverna favorites. Sofi's odd, off-street setting, near the Farmers Market in a popular part of town, has made it an insiders' secret.
Let's continue on our world-cuisine theme with an exotic Arabian experience—genie waitresses who wash your hands with warm water while belly dancers shimmy around an exquisite fountain—at Dar Maghreb [*] (Expensive; 7651 Sunset Blvd., corner of Stanley Ave.; 323-876-7651). You'll feel like a guest in an ornately tiled palace as you dine at traditional tables on either low sofas or goatskin cushions. The fixed-price meal is a multicourse feast, starting with bread and traditional Moroccan salads, followed by b'stilla, an appetizer of shredded chicken, eggs, almonds and spices wrapped in a flaky pastry shell and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon. The main courses, your choice of lamb, quail, chicken and more, are each sublimely seasoned and delectable. All is eaten with your hands—a sensual experience that grows on you as the night progresses.
You want ethnic, we got ethnic. Roscoe's House of Chicken 'n' Waffles [*] (Inexpensive; 1514 N. Gower St., at Sunset Blvd.; 323-466-7453) may sound like a like a bad joke; rather, it's good eating. Only chicken and waffle dishes are served here, a rubric that also encompasses eggs and chicken livers. A chicken-and-cheese omelet isn't everyone's ideal way to begin the day, but it's de rigueur at Roscoe's. At lunch, few calorie-unconscious diners can resist the chicken smothered in gravy and onions, a house specialty that's served with waffles or grits and biscuits. Large chicken-salad bowls and chicken sandwiches provide plenty of cluck for the buck. Homemade corn bread, sweet-potato pie, homemade potato salad and corn on the cob are available as side orders, and wine and beer are sold. Roscoe's can also be found at 106 W. Manchester St. (at Main St.; 323-752-6211), and 5006 W. Pico Blvd. (at La Brea Ave.; 323-934-4405).
Equally L.A. hip is Swingers [*] (Inexpensive; 8020 Beverly Blvd., west of Fairfax Ave.; (323) 653-5858). Resurrected from a motel coffee shop, Swingers was transformed by a couple of L.A. nightclub owners into a 1990s version of comfy Americana. The interior seems like a slice of the 1950s until you notice the plaid upholstery and Warholesque graphics, which contrast nicely with the retro red-white-and-blue "Swingers" logo adorning everything. You'll enjoy a menu of high-quality diner favorites with trendy crowd-pleasers: steel-cut Irish oatmeal, challah French toast, grilled Jamaican jerk chicken and a selection of tofu-enhanced vegetarian dishes are just a few of the eclectic offerings. Sometimes we just "swing" by for a malt or milk shake to go—they're among the best in town.
Bring your camera if you're game enough to dine at Pink's Hot Dogs (Inexpensive; 709 N. La Brea Ave., at Melrose Ave.; 323-931-4223). Pink's isn't your usual dining recommendation, but then again, this corner stand isn't your usual dog cart. The heartburn-inducing chili dogs ("World's Best!") are craved by even the most health-conscious Angelenos. Bruce Willis reportedly proposed to Demi Moore at the 63-year-old shack that grew around the late Paul Pink's 10¢ wiener cart. Pray the bulldozers stay away from this little nugget of a place.
