The Complete Cookie

Delighted to be caught with their hands in the cookie jar, Bluestein and Morrissey (The 99% Fat-Free Cookbook) wax sentimental over the treats most associated with childhood, even as they include confections that would raise June Cleaver's eyebrows. In the afterschool category are Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies, calling for a generous amount of peanut butter, and cinnamon-scented homemade Graham Crackers. Adult appetites are addressed by the likes of Ginger Pear Biscotti and Cappuccino-filled Hazelnut Sandwiches. There are shaped, pressed and molded cookies, such as a sophisticated Licorice Spritz. The chapter on bar cookies is nothing less than inspired, particularly Fig Port Bars and Roasted Almond Brownies. Holiday cookies come from lots of traditions; even the treats that are low in fat, salt and sugar are tempting. The authors advise on everything from selecting and storing ingredients to kitchenware it would be nice to have on hand. Upscale ingredients that weren't part of grandma's larder--white chocolate, raspberries and hazelnuts--may capture an undue amount of attention and the authors' idea of quick and easy or readily available ingredients may not always jibe with the harried home cook's, but the end result is full of sweet, irresistible promise. (Sept.)